WHEN SEA AND FOOD INTERTWINE – TEXT BY ELENA DAK
History and philosophy of a Mediterranean restaurant
It was the transparency of the water in the port of Favignana that changed the destiny of Giancarlo Riso, born in Rome but who became a son of Sicily. His is a family of cooks and gourmets: one of those for whom good food, time spent at the table, and chats about memorable meals of delicious dishes give meaning to everything else. As an adult, Sabina, Rieti, and Rome became his favorite places where he founded three homes of taste, always giving them the same name: Quello che c’è...c’è.
No other combination of words could more clearly express the philosophy that drives him: to eat the food that the surrounding land produces and what the season offers. In 2003, a holiday in Favignana with dear friends reshuffled the cards and that clarity at the port overturned all plans. During a vacation dedicated to his passion for the sea, Giancarlo looked around and after a year, with his friend Rino, he was already at the stoves of the restaurant Amici del mare.
However, the family tradition is stronger and after two years, “Quello che c’è...c’è” was born in Favignana as well, where he enhances his knowledge of one of the richest fish faunas of the Mediterranean Sea and works with tuna up to 170 kg. Sisters Maria and Giovanna Guccione were beacons for him, points of reference and sources of advice, as well as recipients of deep esteem.
After a few years, his sons Gianluca and Simone, holders of valuable experience in the most prestigious Roman restaurants, also came to Favignana, turning the restaurant founded by Giancarlo into a family workshop where inventiveness, quality, freshness, and enhancement of Sicilian products translate into recipes that enchant the palates of guests, both Italian and foreign, on the island.
The fish counter is a triumph of fish that just a few hours earlier swam in the turquoise seabed around the island; fresh focaccias, Roman dishes, couscous and Moroccan tajines, raw seafood enhanced with fruit and Middle Eastern spices, desserts made with pistachios and almonds are worth more than just a stop at this bow.
In 2014, the Kiosko Bar Marasolo was also born, overlooking the sea of Punta Lunga: one of the most beautiful spots on the island facing west toward Preveto.